Island Hopping in Greece: How to Plan It

Understand the island groups first

Greek islands are organised into groups, and ferries mostly run within a group or between a group and the mainland. Mixing groups is possible, but it usually means a long crossing or a flight. Choosing one or two neighbouring groups is the key to a relaxed trip.

Here are the main groups and what each is like.

• The Cyclades: the classic image of Greece, with white cube houses, blue domes and dry, rocky hills in the central Aegean. Santorini and Mykonos are the famous names; Naxos, Paros, Milos, Sifnos, Folegandros and Ios are well connected and quieter. This is the easiest group for a first island-hopping trip.
• The Dodecanese: closer to the Turkish coast, with a mix of medieval, Ottoman and Italian architecture. Rhodes has a walled old town that is a UNESCO World Heritage Site; Kos, Symi, Patmos and Kalymnos are reachable from there.
• Crete: Greece's largest island, big enough for a week or two on its own. It has Minoan palaces such as Knossos, mountain gorges, long beaches and its own food culture, and it has ferry links to the Cyclades.
• The Ionian Islands: off the west coast, greener and more Italian-influenced. Corfu, Kefalonia, Zakynthos, Lefkada and Ithaca link to each other and to the western mainland, but not easily to the Aegean islands.
• The Saronic Islands: the closest to Athens. Aegina, Poros, Hydra and Spetses are short trips from the port of Piraeus. Hydra is known for having almost no cars; donkeys and boats do much of the transport.
• The Sporades and the North Aegean: Skiathos, Skopelos and Alonissos lie off the east coast of the mainland and are green and wooded. Further east, Lesbos, Chios and Samos are large, less touristy islands with strong local traditions.

How Greek ferries work

Ferries are the backbone of island hopping. From Athens, most services to the Cyclades and beyond leave from Piraeus, the main port, with others from Rafina and Lavrio, both closer to Athens airport. It is worth checking which port your ferry uses, as they are a long way apart.

There are two broad types of boat. Conventional ferries are large, slower and carry vehicles. They are more stable in rough seas and have open decks and cafes. High-speed boats and catamarans can cut journey times considerably, but they are more expensive, you usually have to stay inside, and they are more likely to be cancelled or delayed in strong winds.

Timetables change by season. In summer, popular routes run several times a day, while in winter some islands have only a few connections a week. Summer timetables are usually published in spring, so if you are planning far ahead, schedules for your dates may not be available yet. Several ferry booking websites let you search routes across different companies in one place.

Weather can disrupt plans. In July and August, the meltemi, a strong, dry northerly wind, blows across the Aegean, sometimes for several days at a time. It keeps temperatures bearable but can make crossings rough and occasionally cancels smaller boats. Build a little slack into your plans, and avoid scheduling a ferry for the day before an international flight home.

When to go

The island season runs roughly from Easter to the end of October. Within that window, the best times for most people are late May to June and September to early October. The weather is warm and settled, the sea is pleasant for swimming, especially in September, and ferries run frequently without the peak-season crowds.

July and August are the hottest and busiest months. Popular islands such as Santorini and Mykonos are very crowded, accommodation needs booking well ahead, and ferries fill up, especially around the 15th of August, a major religious holiday in Greece when many Greeks travel to the islands.

Outside the season, from November to March, the islands are a very different place. Many hotels, restaurants and beach businesses close, ferry links are reduced, and the weather can be wet and windy. Large islands with year-round populations, such as Crete, Rhodes, Naxos and the Saronic Islands, are the best choices if you want to visit in winter.

How to build a route

A good island-hopping route is linear, uses well-connected hubs and gives each island enough time. Three or four nights per island is a sensible minimum; any less and you spend more time packing and waiting at ports than relaxing. On a two-week trip, three or four islands is plenty.

Work out where you will fly in and out, then plan a line between them rather than a loop. Santorini, Mykonos, Paros, Naxos, Milos, Rhodes, Kos, Corfu and Crete all have airports, some with international flights in summer, so you can often take a ferry out from Athens and fly home from the last island, or the other way round.

Hub islands with frequent connections make routes much easier. In the Cyclades, Paros and Naxos sit at the centre of the network, with links in most directions. In the Dodecanese, Rhodes is the hub. Smaller islands may only be served on certain days, so check those first and plan the rest of the route around them.

Here are a few routes that work well:

• A first Cyclades trip: Athens, then Paros, Naxos and Santorini, flying home from Santorini or returning to Athens by ferry or plane.
• A quieter Cyclades route: Athens, then Sifnos, Milos and Folegandros, finishing in Santorini.
• Cyclades and Crete: Athens, Naxos, Santorini, then the ferry south to Crete, flying home from Heraklion or Chania.
• The Dodecanese: fly to Rhodes, then visit Symi and Kos, or continue north to Patmos.
• A short break from Athens: Aegina, Poros and Hydra, each only a short boat ride from Piraeus and from each other.
• The Ionian Islands: Corfu, then down the coast to Lefkada, Kefalonia and Ithaca, using a combination of ferries and road links.

Practical tips

Travel light. You will be carrying your bags on and off ferries and up hilly, often stepped streets, and a medium-sized rucksack or a small case is far easier than a large suitcase.

Arrive at the port in good time, as boats often load quickly and do not wait. Ports can be chaotic in summer, with several ferries arriving and leaving at once, so check the name of your boat and where it docks. On many islands, accommodation hosts will tell you exactly where to wait.

Book early for July and August, especially for accommodation on the most popular islands and for ferries with vehicles. In the shoulder season you can usually be more flexible, though it is still wise to book key crossings a few days ahead.

Renting a car, scooter or quad bike opens up many islands, but roads can be narrow and steep, and accidents involving inexperienced scooter riders are common. Wear a helmet, ride within your experience and check your travel insurance covers it. Many islands also have local buses that are cheap and reliable for reaching the main beaches and villages.

Mobile data is useful when ferries change at short notice, as updates often come by text, email or the booking website. A travel eSIM gives you mobile data abroad, so you can check schedules, maps and the weather from the deck. Our Greece travel guide covers the mainland and Athens as well.